Day 14 - Most challenging day yet! (Marcilhac-sur-Célé à Saint-Cirq-Lapopie 33 km)
I'm a couple of days late in posting this because I was too exhausted at the end of the last two hikes to put pen to paper.
Sun, Sep 5th was the most challenging day of both this and my last Camino. It was a constant up and down day and coupled with the heat in the afternoon and the distance, all of us were exhausted and running on empty by the time we reached our campsite.
The views throughout the day were spectacular as we hiked through the beautiful Célé Valley. The limestone cliffs continued to provide numerous opportunities for photos.
Kate decided to stay in Cabrerets as she wanted to see the 29,000 year old cave drawings. After a brief stop for a swim and a rest, the remaining four continued on with our travels through Bouziès and to our destination just outside of Saint-Cirq-Lapopie.
As mentioned, we were all completely exhausted and after a swim and supper, we pitched our tents in the darkness and crashed.
Day 13 - Climb, Descend, Repeat x 3 (Espagnac-Sainte-Eulalie à Marcilhac-sur-Célé 17 km)
You are probably going to get tired of me telling you how great each day is along this journey but I will accept that risk and continue with my descriptions.
After a great sleep in the tower, the standard French breakfast was enjoyed by all five of us while a light rain shower freshened the air for our hike. And once again, we started the day with a strenuous, steep climb out of the valley. This was the first of three challenging ascents and descents for the day - a ‘short’ 17 km day but one which certainly gave us a good workout. The initial views of our valley looking back towards our castle were spectacular and foreshadowed the rest of the day.
Shortly after we crested our first climb, we viewed majestic cliffs which we headed for along a narrow path with a steep drop off to the left. Built into the first cliff was a 12th century structure that is now inaccessible except to view from below. The hike along the bottom of the cliffs was beautiful with the path often going under rocky overhangs.
After the next camel's hump, we came upon the village of Saint-Sulpice which had several dwellings built into the side of the cliffs - very impressive.
The descent from the final hump brought us to our destination of Sainte-Eulalie. The gîte was closed for a couple more hours so into the river we went to wash the sweat off. The cool water was very refreshing and we lingered in and out of the river, chatting and making plans for the next couple of days. When we did check into the gîte, we found out that we were the only ones so we planned to have another family meal with Chef Lucie. The five of us had a fantastic time in the evening talking, eating and laughing. We only have a couple more days with Clément and Lucie before they have to depart so we are making the best of it. Delicious food and amazing company made for a wonderful evening.
Yes indeed. Life is good.
Day 12 - Variety is the Spice of Life (Figeac à Espagnac-Sainte-Eulalie 29 km)
It rained last night. Hard. Fortunately we were quite comfortable in our apartment after a wonderful evening so we were not affected. However, the rain seemed to wake up the city and freshen the air for the day.
After we packed up and left our building, we headed to an épicerie and a boulangerie to pick up some food for the long day ahead of us. I wish I could adequately describe the beautiful smell of the freshly baked bread wafting throughout the neighbourhood. Incredible!
The streets were still wet but the sun was pushing through the remaining clouds as we left the busy city and climbed into the hills along back roads. The rain greatly enhanced the colours and scents of the forest and made the long walk quite a bit more pleasant.
From city streets to quiet back roads, narrow forest paths, farmers’ fields and riverside trails, we traversed a wide variety of areas today. And although we had many kilometres to cover, we stopped to smell the roses often.
We ran into Santamaria and Matilda who are always a pleasure to chat with. There did not seem to be as many pilgrims on the road today and even fewer after we took the GR 651 variant trail off the main GR 65 route. The GR 651 runs through the beautiful Cele Valley and through some incredibly scenic villages.
After our initial descent into the valley, we walked through corn fields - many corn fields. Nothing but the tallest corn I've ever seen as some stalks were over 10 feet. All five of us met up mid-afternoon and we walked together for the last couple of hours. Just short of our destination, we went for a very refreshing dip in the river. Heaven!
Our gîte for the night is in an old castle that was built before the 15th century and our room was in the top floor of the tower. Very neat!
In addition to great appetizers and dessert, dinner included Spanish rice and Texas chili prepared as Nd served by a Brit… in a French castle. A unique experience.
After dinner we visited Clément and Lucie at their campsite just a few meters away and had a great chat as darkness came. Another large day.
Day 11 - Family (Livinac-le-Haut à Figeac - 26 km)
Today was another great day. After breakfast at the gîte and stocking up on some traveling food, we began another long climb out of the village. I had a chance to chat with Santamaria (Ankemaria) for the first few km. She is truly a lovely woman with a very interesting past and a real pleasure to walk with. For the first time on this journey we saw clouds and a few drops from the sky. Although it probably wasn't necessary, we donned the pack covers to keep our socks and bread dry as they normally are hanging on the back of our packs.
The day was mostly uneventful as we walked through a few fields and along several roads. The best part of the day was arriving in Figeac to meet Clément and Lucie. Dan was ‘missing’ since mid-afternoon yesterday and our gang of five once again regrouped in the town square for refreshments. Dan will have to fill you in on his adventures himself.
After getting cleaned up and doing some laundry, we settled in to help Lucie with dinner prep or to plan our journey for the next few days. We had a great time chatting about a wide variety of subjects before supper and were eagerly awaiting Lucie's creations. With none of the basic spices and condiments in the apartment, Lucie and others whipped together a beautiful salad, an amazing, vegetable packed French omelet and a wonderful peach clafoutis that was so delicious. Some French chocolate treats completed the meal which satisfied all of us. I can only imagine what would have been produced had Lucie been in her own kitchen.
Yes indeed, it was a wonderful day because of the fellow pilgrims. And finally, for Marie-Paule (Clément's mother), I will continue to update his travels as long as I'm in the same area as him. You have raised a fine son and we are all blessed to have him in our pilgrim family.
Day 10 It's getting hotter! (Conques à Livinhac-le-Haut - 25 km)
Today started with a test for the legs - 10 minutes of steep downhill on the stone streets leaving town followed by 30 minutes of very steep climbing on the notorious rock-strewn, narrow path. As mentioned yesterday, climbing is my forte so it was non-stop to the top of the hill. A great way to break into a sweat.
I was on my own for the first 8 km and caught up with Dan at the first available spot to have a café au lait. Kate arrived shortly afterwards with a Camino sister Ankemarie from Germany. She began her journey in Geneva and intends to go to Pamplona where she began her first Camino a few years ago. In keeping with our Camino naming conventions, she will now be referred to as Santamaria. We hope to see much more of her on our journey as she has a wonderful attitude about life and she fits right into our family.
Dan and I walked together for most of the rest of the day. Each town we enter, whether or be for our end of the day accommodation or for a rest stop, always seems to be either on top of a hill or in a valley. Today was no exception. Conques is in a deep valley so we had the steep morning climb. Decazeville, our lunch stop, another deep valley and climb. Livinac-le-Haut, you guessed it, another valley and anticipated climb in the morning. The temperature today reached the upper 20s so the climbs definitely contributed to a good workout and lots of sweating. Additionally, most of today was on the quiet, paved back roads so the asphalt also kept the temperature up. Don't get me wrong, I will never complain about the beautiful weather we are having. I'm just stating the facts.
Dan continued a few km down the road and planned to camp with Lucie and Clément tonight. We'll see if he makes it there. 😁 The five of us will be staying in the same place tomorrow which should be a great time.
After ten days of walking, we have covered almost 250 km - about a third of the way to our initial destination of Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port and about 1/6 of the way to Santiago - if I decide to continue on the Camino Frances.
Day 9 - Short and Sweet (Espeyrac à Conques - 14 km)
Dan spent the night camping with Clément and Lucie just outside of town so we headed there for camp coffee just after 0700. After a brief visit, Dan, Kate and I headed out for a short hike that was not without a couple of challenges.
Over the past nine days it has been easy to determine the different strengths of our group. With the exception of a lack of navigation skills when deep in thought, Dan is strong in many areas but excels at endurance and downhill. Kate too is strong on the downhill and also very fast on the flats. Me - I rock the climbs. Because of these differences, the three of us rarely walk together as a group. When we hit a portion of the trail that is in our wheelhouse, away we go. If the plan is to stay in the same location, we will always find each other at the end of the walk.
Each day we can find a wide variety of trail characteristics, each with its own challenge. We've seen asphalt roads, dirt roads, farmers' lanes, deeply furrowed goat paths, and rocky, treacherous steep paths. These could be found in open areas, heavily forested areas, and everything in between. That's part of what makes this journey so amazing.
We met a young man from Brittany who hopes to make it all the way to Santiago. Pierre is 22 years old and this is his first big journey on his own. We hope to cross paths with him along the way. We also met Nadine, a young German woman who recognized Dan's Seahawks hat and told us that she attended school in Seattle several years ago. Finally Dan's hat is recognized!
Once again we met Clément and Lucie, this time at our destination in Conques. They were on their way to the river to cool down and then off to sleep in a chapel two hours past here. The excitement on their faces for both events was very visible. And..... they plan on adding a few more days to their adventure which excites us. We can't say enough wonderful things about these two very special pilgrims who were gifted into our lives. I forsee a long friendship with them.
We stayed at Abbaye Sainte Foy-Communaute des Premontres in Conques tonight. The church is hundreds of years old and staying in the abbey is very special. Dinner was with over 50 pilgrims and was followed by a benediction service for the pilgrims in the church. As one of the three English speaking pilgrims from North America, Dan volunteered to do a short reading for the mass and did a great job.
Another special day is complete.
Day 8 - A great day for a hike (Estaing à Espeyrac - 24 km)
The day started with a delicious gîte breakfast consisting of coffee, orange juice, bread, butter, homemade preserves, and yogurt. We then headed directly to the boulangerie to get some bread, fruit and fixings for sandwiches as there would be little support along today's route. Dan and I decided to take the variant GR 6 which took us over top of the mountains and provided some incredible views while Kate decided to take the main GR 65 route. Our route was quite challenging with some very long ascents and some very steep, shorter descents. In the first hour we walked through a dense forest that seemed exactly like a West Coast forest. During the times when we walked along farmers' fields or on small country roads, we saw many blackberry bushes that were filled and even though they are not all ripe we had a good feed.
Once again the weather was perfect for us and we thoroughly enjoyed each other's company as we wandered along following the markers. At one point after coming out of the forest and seeing the incredible vista in front of us, Dan commented that we are two of the richest people in the world right now. I could not agree with him more. On the final push to our destination, we found a perfect spot to chill down our feet - a daily tradition if at all possible. On our entire 24 km journey today, Dan and I saw no other pilgrims which is a first for us.
The three of us stayed in different locations tonight. Dan went camping with our very good pilgrim friends Clément and Lucie, Kate went to a very new municipal gîte, and I stayed in a gite that gave me a weird feeling - I'll talk about that some other day.
Tomorrow will be a very short day but it will allow us to get some sightseeing done. A demain!
Day 7 - An ‘easy’ day (Saint-Côme-d'Olt à Estaing - 23 km)
Despite this being only a 23 km day, we were all tired from yesterday's journey of 35 km and Dan's even longer escapade before he finally caught up to us this morning. You'll have to ask him for those details.
We met the gîte owner at breakfast - a Francophone from Montreal who has been running this gîte with his wife for seven years. It was great to chat with them.
The path today had a few significant climbs and descents; some of these were avoided by a couple of people in our group as they deservedly took the scenic route. Shortly after departure, we saw Clément and Lucie who were just breaking camp. More on them later.
At our first stop in Espalion, we ran into the young men from Mauritius who unfortunately were heading home today. In the last couple of days we've had to say goodbye to several pilgrims as they must return to work or school. We will definitely miss Olivia, Jeanne, Hugo, Xavier, Yvan, Terry, Alexi and Will to name a few. I would also like to say that I am very grateful that we have met so many young pilgrims this week. I can't tell you how much I've enjoyed speaking with each and every one of them and how excited I am for their futures. They have truly warmed my heart with their enthusiasm and energy.
After a dip in the river at our destination, we headed downtown for a beverage and shortly thereafter, Clément and Lucie arrived to join us. We were thrilled to find out that they will be extending their journey and will remain on the path until next weekend. This makes us very happy as they are both amazing people who we would love to see more of this week.
Dinner was fantastic of course and we have yet to be disappointed with a meal at a gîte.
The weather remains perfect for us and we are looking forward to another wonderful day tomorrow.
Day 6 - Toughest day yet! (Nasbinals à Saint-Côme-d'Olt - 35 km)
We were up early to get a jump on what we knew would be a long day. We had to say goodbye to Will this morning as his portion of this Camino ends today. We will miss him and we certainly hope that our paths will cross again.
In a chilly 6C temperature, we departed separately before the sun rose. It was a real pleasure to be able to see the sun rise for the first time on this journey because as you know, I love the incredible light conditions.
After about 30 minutes, I ran into Clément and Lucie who had camped outside of town. It was great to see them and we arranged to meet at our destination. A climb into the mist and the cow pastures followed. As I walked along the path with a chilling wind biting at my back, the cows appeared out of the mist directly in front of me. What a surprise to see them! It was absolutely beautiful to walk amongst them as they had no fear of me. The sound of the wind and the bells in the mist was mesmerizing and the hour long transit through the fields was the highlight of my day.
I stopped for breakfast at a small village about 10 km into the day. Physiologically this feels great because having breakfast at this point feels like a restart with only 20+ km to go - a short day.
The rest of the journey was along farm roads, quiet back roads and numerous narrow, steep and rocky paths. These paths at times required very careful passage with deliberate foot and pole placement. This was especially critical during the last few kilometres as both the body and mind were tired and a slip or fall could be devastating. I was very grateful that the trails were dry because any rain would have made them very treacherous.
The gîte was a welcome relief after a full day of hiking and as usual, shower and laundry followed arrival. Clément and Lucie stopped by to say hello before they continued on their way. We met a friend of Olivia at the gîte - Jeanne - who was an absolute pleasure to talk to. Unfortunately, her journey ends tomorrow. Also staying here were Terry and Alexi (a father and son who we've seen many times), and one of our favourite characters on the path and his companions, Jean-Paul, Michel, Babeth and Yvonne.
Dan decided to walk his own Camino today and we missed him at dinner. Speaking of dinner, once again, it was amazing. I can easily get used to the incredible food that is homecooked at the gîtes. The company of course was also wonderful.
This was certainly the most physically challenging day for me however that was quickly forgotten once we were around the supper table. The family ties with these wonderful people are strengthening.
Day 5 - It's all about the people (Peyre en Aubrac à Nasbinals - 28 km)
Today was fantastic. The weather was absolutely perfect with a temperature in the mid 20s, sunshine and a light breeze. Breakfast at the gite consisted of the normal fare - café au lait, bread, jam, and butter. The walk started earlier than normal because we had about 28 km to go. After purchasing a sandwich at a boulangerie before departing town, we headed out at 7:30. We spent the first couple of hours in beautiful pine forests until we hit the aubrac, a region of few trees, rolling hills, stone fences, cows, and incredible openness.
Shortly after we entered this area, I ran into David and Brenda from Seattle. These are the first non-Europeans that we've encountered so we had lots to talk about. They will be on the trail for a while so I expect to see them again.
After a particularly long climb in the aubrac, I crested a hill and came upon a spectacular vista. As far as the eye could see, the land was a vast scene of beauty. Neither my words nor my pictures can adequately do the scene justice. I can honestly say that this was the most beautiful site I've seen on this journey and I had to stop for a few moments to try and take everything in. I was completely gobsmacked.
A few kilometres later we came upon a river that beckoned us with its cool sparkling water. Dan and I could not resist the urge and spend several minutes savouring the cool refreshing water. The river rejuvenated us for the final few kilometres to our destination.
As we entered town, we saw Clément and his friend Lucie. A couple of days ago, Dan gave Clément a knee brace but we had not seen nor heard from him since then so this was a very special and unexpected reunion. Clément told us that the knee brace had made a huge difference in his pain and he was able to continue his journey. It was an absolute pleasure to see him again and to meet his friend Lucie.
Once settled in our gite, we got ourselves cleaned up and met Olivia and her friends at a local establishment to kill some time before supper. The three young gentlemen we met were from Mauritius and will be on the Camino for about a week before having to return to their engineering and architecture studies in Toulouse and Paris. We thoroughly enjoyed their company and their stories. Joined by Will, we all had dinner at a local restaurant and continued our conversations. I can't tell you how much I enjoyed speaking to all of these wonderful young people and how much I love that they will be experiencing the Camino so much earlier in their lives than me.
I've always said that one of my greatest pleasures on the first Camino, and on my hikes in Canada and the US, is meeting people. Today was an extraordinary day because of the wonderful pilgrims I was blessed to meet. I'm looking forward to seeing what or who will enter my life along the Way.
Day 4 (Saint-Alban-sur-Limagnole à Peyre en Aubrac - 18 km)
After a leisurely breakfast with fresh cow milk for our coffee and cereal, we departed the farm under a sun trying to burn through the the cool mist. The weather today was once again near perfect - mid 20s with a light breeze. The path was a mixture of back road asphalt, 'goat' paths, dirt roads, and farm paths through forests, fields and small villages. Although the distance was only about 18 km, there were a few narrow, rocky climbs and at least one long, strenuous climb with no cover from the sun.
The leapfrogging continues. We ran into Inge from Belgium, the father/son team I mentioned in an earlier post (Benoit and Thomas), Will from England,, and Olivia (in the evening). We love this aspect of the walk as we get to see our new Camino friends on a regular basis.
Our day ended early so we were able to wash off the stink, do some laundry, grab a very short nap, head downtown for a walkabout to grab essential supplies, conduct a recce to get food for tomorrow's travel, and get some internet business completed - all before supper!
Supper was once again, delicious. The regional specialty is aligot, a mashed potato dish that is combined with cheese and garlic to produce a stretchy product that tastes wonderful. Accompanied by salad, beef, vegetables, a pear tart and of course wine, we were quite satisfied. We sat with Inge, our new Camino sister Angelina, and Will who provided after dinner entertainment. This is Angelina's first day as she continues her Camino in stages. We will be seeing her for the next nine days before she has to return to work.
Our Camino family continues to grow and to bond. This is one of the most important aspects of being a Pilgrim - sharing with your ‘family.’
Day 3 - Endurance Test (Saugues à Saint-Alban-sur-Limagnole - 32 km)
Because the first week of this Camino is very busy and the number of beds in the gîtes is reduced due to Covid restrictions, it was impossible to find accommodation in the sweet spot of 25-28 km. So today was a real test for our bodies at 32 km. Although the weather was near perfect and the terrain less of a vertical climb than yesterday, it was still a challenge for only our third day on the path. Our bodies were not expecting this distance however they pulled through and we met the aim. The rolling hills were occasionally interrupted by reasonably steep ascents and descents, some on those previously mentioned rocky goat paths, and our legs were once again put to the test.
Most of the people we have encountered are only on the path for a week of so and it is interesting to speak with them to find out why they have decided to walk. The reasons are quite varied. I met another father/son team who are doing this to bond, some are simply looking for a different place to hike, and some who are a crossroads in their life and are seeking clarity. I've had several wonderful conversations with pilgrims mostly from France but also from Belgium, England and Austria. I'm grateful for the opportunity to speak French and can sense improvement in my ability each day. I'm also thankful for the patience by my fellow pilgrims when I do speak. 🙂
With about seven km to go, we came across a small stream that enticed us to stop and soak our tired feet. It was amazingly refreshing and we encouraged fellow pilgrims Inge and Will who were passing by to join us. It was truly a multinational soak with four countries represented.
Our destination gîte was a working dairy farm and we were put up in the barn above the cows. We had the opportunity to watch them being milked and had an interesting conversation with the owner. The milk from these cows will be turned into powder and sent to China to be used in formula. The home cooked meal was incredible -tuna quiche, beef stew, cheese, blueberry and chocolate pies, and of course, bread and wine. It was a perfect end to a great day.
Day 2 (Saint-Privat-d'Allier à Saugues - 20 km)
Today was a relatively short but elevation challenging day. The uphills were long and steep, the downhills were rocky, very steep, narrow and at times, treacherous. We were very grateful that it was not raining.
On this Camino, the meal situation is very different than our last one in Spain. In most places we will have the opportunity to get both supper and breakfast included with the cost of the bed. Logistically, this is a good option for us as we will be guaranteed essential nutrients and will not have to worry about finding a place to eat. With villages generally further apart with fewer services, this is our best option. What it means is that because many pilgrims take advantage of this, we all seem to depart in the same timeframe which can lead to congested areas on the narrow portions of the trail.
The leapfrogging effect is active here on day two. This occurs as you pass individuals or groups at one point of the day and then they pass you later on. Over the course of the entire Camino, this can happen dozens of times with specific people or groups. Today this group included Jean-Paul who is walking all the way to Santiago, Spain, Jacinthe's family of five (she's the donkey), Will from England, Clément, and many others whose names are still unknown to us.
We met a group of Austrians who do a trip like this one week out of the year and have been doing so for years. Led by Robert, a professor in Innsbruck, the group of 24 range in age from 35 to 80.
When we ran into Clément who I met yesterday, he mentioned that he was having some issues with his knee. Captain Dan promptly pulled out a knee brace that he had in his pack ‘just in case.’ Clément was very grateful and rewarded us with some delicious cheese.
As we enjoyed some wine and cheese mid-afternoon, we noted that the three of us were the only non-Europeans on the trail to our knowledge (so far). We also decided that despite the Covid environment and government recommendations to stay at home, we had made the right decision to come on this journey. We had assessed the risk, taken all the necessary precautions and feel extremely blessed to be here.
Day 1 - On a commencé! (Le Puy-en-Velay à Saint-Privé d'Allier - 24 km)
What a fantastic first day! We started early with a 0700 mass at the cathedral with about 150-200 other pilgrims. After mass, a trap door opened from the centre aisle exposing a staircase that led down through the cathedral onto the street to begin our Camino. A very unique experience.
The weather for today's 24+ km journey could not have been better - mid 20s C, a light breeze and partly cloudy. Shortly after we began, we made our first tactical error in bypassing the first café we saw. Little did we realize that on Mondays in France, most shops are closed and no other open establishments were seen. This error necessitated a delay in getting the essential calories into our bodies by about 10 km’s of walking. Fortunately, to stave off a potential violent crime amongst our group of four, a couple of emergency energy bars were unearthed one km into the trek which satiated those so close to the edge of insanity. Additionally, there was no opportunity for coffee until that 10 km mark so I think we truly dodged a bullet today.
When we finally found an open bar, the ham sandwich and café au lait were extremely welcome and provided the energy required to continue for the day. It was uphill for most of the day however only a few spots were steep. The most challenging portion in my opinion was the last couple of kms into Saint-Privé as it was truly a rocky goat path that was somewhat treacherous requiring careful and slow negotiation. There were plenty of wonderful views along the way, just as we expected. We had read numerous blogs and web sites pontificating the incredible vistas and we were not disappointed.
For the last few kms, I walked with Clément, a young man from Lyon who was also on his first day and is camping along the route. With no set itinerary, he will see how far he gets before he has to go back to work. He is an English/French high school teacher who had nothing but passion in his voice when he told me how much he loved his job as well as each and every student. It was truly a pleasure to speak with him and I hope to see him again.
At the end of the day, all of us felt great despite the distance for our first stage. The day was topped of with a delicious meal at Gîte Kompost'l and a beautiful evening walk around the village of about 450 people.
T-Minus One (Arrival at the Beginning)
Dan and I had a great breakfast and a leisurely morning getting caught up before we headed to the train station in Lyon. It was an uneventful yet beautiful ride through varying landscapes. A refreshing looking river beckoned us and we both commented on how we are prepared to go for a dip much more often than our last Camino. We arrived in Le Puy-en-Velay and as we started to walk up through the steep, narrow, winding streets, our hearts quickened…from the excitement and from the exertion! Although our souls are eager to walk, our bodies may yet take more convincing. As with last time, I'm expecting that after about four days my body will accept that I'm going to do this walking thing for a while so it should begin to adapt instead of rebel.
We checked into our gîte then headed out for a walkabout in the area around the cathedral. Both hungry, we found a small café and had a beverage and a delicious quiche. More walking in the afternoon and then a carb-loaded meal to prepare for our 24 km hike through the mountains tomorrow.
In the evening we met up with my good friend Kate from Vancouver and her new Camino friend Olivia from Paris. In early spring, Kate booked her ticket to arrive in France in Aug. Dan decided on our Aug arrival date in late Jun with no knowledge of Kate's plan. We arrived in Le Puy on the same day. Quite the coincidence! The three of us will be walking at least part of this Camino together.
We are very excited to begin our journey tomorrow morning after a special pilgrim's mass. We are ready for adventure!
By the way, wifi will be spurious on this journey so my posts and pictures may be delayed.
Bienvenue en France!
Well that was a busy 24 hours!
When I booked my airline ticket, I preselected an emergency row window seat to get that extra legroom on a 6+ hour flight. Little did I know that for the overwing emergency exits on a 777, there are no windows! I had tons of legroom, much more than I anticipated or needed, but no view of the outside world. It reminded me of my flying days in the back of the Aurora, in the ‘tube’ as it is known, where the real tactical action happens but there are no windows. However, there was no action happening on this flight. Just me staring at the bulkhead. I didn't realize until well into the flight that the entertainment system was available by flipping it up from the well hidden space between the front of the seats. It never did see the light of day and besides, I was content with the music on my phone.
Customs was a breeze. A scan of my passport and a thorough look at my Covid vaccination papers was all it took to let me into the country. One hurtle completed. My chrysalis-like, plastic-wrapped backpack was waiting for me at baggage so I headed in the direction of the train station with all my worldy possessions for the next several weeks comfortably strapped to my back.
Amid what appeared to be organized chaos in the train station, I stumbled across a Covid antigen rapid test site. They could not help me with the government QR code that would cover me for my entire visit but after telling me that my Canadian test was not acceptable, I gave them 20 euros they gave me a test that would cover me for 72 hours. Passed again so I was good to go.
After a 2+ hour wait, I boarded the TGV and headed to Lyon - at 245 kph! Loved it. Arrival in Lyon was followed by a 15 minute walk to my hotel on one of the hottest days of the year (32C). A premonition of what's to come once we're on the trail.
It was great to have this opportunity to wash the stink off. Not Pilgrim stink that is normally earned by hiking 25-30 km, over changing elevations, carrying about 20 pounds on your back, in unrelenting heat. No, this was traveler’s stink brought on by 24 hours of sitting on your butt in some mode of transportation that is typically too hot and uncomfortable, with a couple of quick bursts of frantic energy thrown in to avoid missing a connection. Unearned stink. I'll take the righteous Pilgrim stink any day.
I killed a few hours wandering the streets of Lyon, finding myself along the Rhône amongst a busy Saturday evening crowd and making my way back to the hotel through narrow side streets with a wide variety of ethnicities. Although it was very interesting, I found myself anxiously yearning for the peace and tranquility that is only a couple of days away. I'm not a city person. Great place for a short visit, but not my cup of tea. A café in a small village suits me just fine.
Dan arrived late this evening with his own stories of adventure from his travels. After being told he could not board his flight from Seattle to Heathrow because he did not have a valid Covid test (the results had not yet arrived), he was in the middle of a phone call seconds away from cancelling his flight when the email finally came in. This then became one of those quick bursts of frantic energy mentioned earlier as he rushed through security managing to beat the clock and ended up being the last person to board the aircraft. The Camino provides.
We depart for Le Puy-en-Velay, our start point, tomorrow morning. My last couple of posts have been unusually verbose for me. That's because I've had plenty of time to ponder and scribe. Don't worry. I fully expect them to shortly be significantly cut back. I don't want to bore you with my drivel. À demain!
And so it begins…..
Just shy of two years ago I began an adventure that significantly impacted my life and today, I finally begin another journey that was delayed one year by Covid. Beginning in Ottawa, I boarded a sold out train to Montreal where I had an eight hour wait at the airport before my flight. This gave me plenty of time to write this blog… as you'll see. :) The reduced train schedules limited my options however the long wait ensured I would not be rushing to my gate for the flight. I'm posting this just before I board my flight to Paris. By the way, for those with my Canadian cell number, it will not be active until my return.
There will be a few critical unknowns when I arrive at CDG in Paris. Because of a significant increase in Covid cases in the county, France recently implemented a mandatory Health Pass which is now required for all places where groups of people gather. Not a big deal if you're wandering around the great outdoors in the middle of the French countryside. However, should you want to get on a train to take you to your starting point, it could be an issue. Over a week ago I submitted all the required documents to the French health department however I have yet to receive my pass. There is a provision that implies you can travel if you have a negative Covid antigen test (I do) which will give you 72 hours of ‘coverage’ but until I have boots on the ground, I will have no concrete answers. I have about three hours from my flight landing until my TGV (fast train) departs for Lyon so hopefully that will be enough time to sort out the details. This will be a great opportunity to practice my French.
Years ago, the old Pete would be very concerned because a plan was not solidly in place. Now, these unknowns just add to my adventure. Although to be honest, I would rather be wondering what's on the other side of that mountain than whether or not I'll get on that train.
Once in Lyon Saturday afternoon, I'll have a few hours to kill before Dan arrives from Marseille. Sunday morning we will take another train to our starting point, Le Puy-en-Velay, and officially begin our Camino Monday morning.
Similar to my last Camino, my expectations for this journey are straightforward - it will be physically and mentally challenging. However, based on my previous trek, I know that I will have amazing experiences and will meet incredible people. I also have a great deal to think about on this one. In addition to the anticipated experiences, I'm genuinely looking forward to walking alone in nature for hours at a time for it is only under these conditions that your mind will go to deep places in your subconscious. This is where you truly find the answers that are within you but so difficult to bring to the surface in our busy lives. Frankly, I need this right now.
Finally, both good and bad decisions have brought me to this place in life and I have learned a great deal from each. The past is unchangeable and the future is unknown. My plan is to live each day to the fullest and to enjoy every moment, every experience, every adventure. And I do this with my guardian angel sister watching over me, pushing me to go further, to play harder, to listen to the drums and dance, to take the risks, to enjoy life. Let's go have some fun Chris!
Camino 2021
Another adventure begins…
In the fall of 2019, I went on an amazing adventure that forever changed my life. I walked across Spain, beginning in the small French town of Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port and finished with a swim in the Atlantic Ocean at Finisterre, Spain, almost 1,000 km and 39 days later. On the Camino Frances, I met absolutely amazing people, some of whom became my very special Camino family. I knew that I would be back to do another journey and now is the time. My Camino brother Dan and I have been planning this adventure since the end of our last one and we are excited to start. Our intent is to begin in Le Puy-en-Velay, France and walk along the Camino Podiensis to Roncesvalles, Spain. A reposition to either Leon or Oviedo, Spain will be necessary before we start the Camino de San Salvador and/or the Camino Primitivo. The ‘final’ destination will be Santiago de Compostela.
From our first Camino, we learned that no matter how much planning you do, events will happen that change those plans. So despite what is written above, we expect deviations. With maximum flexibility, we will be ready for anything and look forward to seeing what unknown adventures the Camino will provide for us. We welcome you to follow Captain Dan and Pilgrim Pete on another epic adventure.
Bon Chemin. Buen Camino.