Day 34 - Back to the beginning (Ostabat a Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port 26 km)
Today I walked into Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port (SJPP) and finished the Le Puy Camino, also called the Via Podiensis, which is about 750 km through the incredible French countryside. Over two years ago, I arrived by train to this town not knowing what was in store for me as I started the Camino Frances. I had mixed feelings today. The memories of my first incredible life-changing adventure flooded my thoughts while I also pondered the varied situations in this last journey. But back to this morning….
After some heavy rain and thunderstorms in the middle of the night, Pierre left very early as he had to attend to some business in Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port (SJPP) before they closed. Rachel and I were on the road before 0700 which required headlamps and shortly after our departure, the rain began. Fortunately it did not last too long and by the time the sun came up we no longer required our rain jackets.
The walk was uneventful however the incredibly scenic French countryside did not disappoint. The colours, smells and animals were beautiful once again.
It was an absolute pleasure for me to arrive in SJPP. The memories of my first adventure, familiar sights and locations of the town, and most impactful to me, the sight of so many pilgrims brought joy to my heart. After getting cleaned up, I sat outside the gîte and watched the pilgrims arrive, easily identifying the weathered, stinky ones who had just walked a few hundred kilometres and the newbies who wore clean clothes, were not limping, and who bore both excitement and apprehension in their eyes. Each and every one of them was beautiful.
Tonight I had a wonderful dinner with the family with whom I spent so much time over that last month. We told stories, laughed and enjoyed our last supper together. Some will continue along the Camino Frances tomorrow or the next day, some will take a different path, and some will stop here. In addition to the ones present tonight, there are so many who I encountered on this journey who have brought lessons and joy to my life. I will miss each and every one of them.
I am extremely grateful for this journey for I have learned so much. I hope to return to this beautiful country later to spend more time enjoying the natural beauty of the land and the generous spirit of the people. The Via Podiensis may be completed for me but I have more to ponder and to do before returning home.
Day 33 - Basques Country (Landaco à Ostabat 23 km)
Today was one of those days when it is impossible for my pictures to convey the beauty that I was privileged to witness. It was the most beautiful morning that I have seen so far on this journey.
Leaving the gîte before sunrise meant that as I reached the peak of the initial hill about 30 minutes after departure, I was able to be a part of the incredible stillness and colour of this glorious morning. It was absolutely stunning. I had a smile on my face for the rest of the day because of this sunrise.
The morning was perfect for hiking through the numerous hills, valleys and forests on this, the second last day of the journey to my initial destination. I chatted with a few pilgrims I had not seen before but for the most part, I was on my own in some amazing scenery.
Early afternoon I caught up with Pierre and Rachel who had stopped for a rest on the top of a rise overlooking the Pyrenees. With only five km to go, a long rest was well-deserved and given the incredible views, was difficult to leave. Once again, the word stunning is how I would describe this beautiful spot.
Arrival at the village was followed by a stop at the local establishment for a beverage where we sat with Laurent. Ankemaria joined us as she passed by on the way to her gîte and it was lovely to see her and get caught up.
Back at our gîte, we met Max, a young German who left Bordeaux a few days ago and is heading to Santiago. He had several entertaining stories to tell us, including one about staying with a clown a couple of days ago. It was both funny and frightening but you'll have to find him on the Camino to get the full story. Max is one of the many new people we have seen as this is the convergence area for three separate paths leading to Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port.
Today was another fantastic day capped off with great company and conversation. Tomorrow we arrive in SJPP.
Day 32 - The mist persists (Navarrenx à Landaco 25 km)
It was another departure in mist and fog this morning - the type of weather that I love. I spent most of the morning traveling solo through beautiful forests hearing only the sound of a wide variety of birds and numerous types of nuts falling from the trees. These portions of the path are some of my favourite, especially when I am on my own and I see very few people.
In the past few days there have been several locations along the path where a 'Friends of the Camino' association have planted ancient varieties of fruit trees to include apple, plum and pear. What a brilliant idea to propagate these rare varieties....and to provide a treat to hungry pilgrims.
It wasn't until late morning that the sun broke through the fog and revealed more of the stunning French countryside. Off in the distance the Pyrenees teased us with their majestic peaks. It was a pleasure to meet up with Pierre, Rachel and Laurent for lunch at a picnic table overlooking a beautiful vista. Lunch was enjoyed at a leisurely pace as we had plenty of time to kill before our gîte opened.
The gîte was located in a valley surrounded by hills which precluded any cell reception and of course, there was no WiFi, hence this late post. The gîte was rustic to say the least. For 12 people, we had two 'dry' toilets and only one shower. Several chickens, a few cats and one dog roamed the grounds. Despite having only the bare essentials, the food and camaraderie around the table was wonderful. On a very pleasant evening, we broke bread, told stories and watched the sun set behind the hills. Another memory for us to cherish.
Day 31 - Mist to Mountains (Argagnon à Navarrenx 26 km)
The morning started with a walk in heavy mist and fog but within a few hours, it turned into a glorious day. Once the fog was gone and when the trail was on the high ground, the Pyrenees came into full view, closer with every hour of walking. They are glorious.
I walked alone for the entire day as the younger ones left early and Ankemaria left a bit later than me. There was lots of time to take pictures, enjoy the beautiful views and let my mind wander as I followed the path markers.
There were only five people at our gîte tonight which was run by a pilgrim who opened it only a year ago. Véronique is a wonderful host and cook who made all of us feel very welcome. We finished the evening off with another ISS viewing under beautiful clear skies.
There are only a few days left until I reach my initial goal of Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port. I'm looking forward to figuring out what's next on my agenda.
Day 30 - Special moments (Uzan à Argagnon 22 km)
We had an earlier start than normal this morning and the weather cooperated with us for the entire travel portion of the day. While the scenery was pretty much the same as the previous days, it never gets boring nor do we tire of it. It remains amazing!
One of the highlights of my day was meeting an elderly gentleman on a quiet country road. I started up a conversation with him and found out that he used to be the owner of the farm we were standing in front of - the one with the beautiful cows. One of his two sons now ran the farm, one daughter ran an épicerie and the other worked in the chapel. He told me how many cows they owned, where they were located, and what they were used for. The entire conversation was in French and we both understood each other. I loved this moment as he seemed so content with life, he was in no rush, and he loved to chat. This is the France I love. It was certainly a very special event for me. I got my selfie and Ankemaria snapped a picture of us as she approached.
Our gîte is an old farm house however we all decided to stay in our own personal roulotte, a mini trailer. What a special treat for all of us. There will be no complaints about snoring tonight!
Dinner was great as always with for countries at the table. Our host Nicolas entertained us with his banjo sheet the meal. A fitting end to another wonderful day.
Day 29 - Keep looking up! (Pimbo à Uzan 26 km)
The day started with a leisurely breakfast with the family around the kitchen table. We all had a great laugh when after seeing Ankemaria and I ‘bickering’ about something minor, Rachel exclaimed “Mom and Dad, please stop fighting.” Cracked us all up!
Under threat of rain and a menacing sky, we departed around 0800 from the quiet village. The weather turned out to be perfect for most of the day, all except for a short but strong downpour that caught the young ones in the open. Ankemaria and I were behind the young legs all day and enjoyed a leisurely break just after the downpour. The sun returned quickly and kept our spirits high as we ‘smelled the roses.’
The scenery in this part of the path is beautiful as we traverse over and between the rolling hills. We witnessed amazing vistas today from the crests of the hills and when we worked our way through the valleys, we were privileged to be in beautiful forests with the wind rustling the leaves like a beautiful symphony. Today's journey was extremely rewarding.
The gîte is in a beautiful home run by a wonderful woman. Dinner was simple yet delicious. Some choose to have demi-pension which means we pay for our bed, home-cooked supper and breakfast while others chose to cook their own food. Whatever the case, we all sat together for the meal which is always the best part.
Post-dinner, we had an astronomy session and International Space Station viewing. The ISS flew overhead for over 6 minutes and was the first viewing for a few in the group. Tacked onto this were sightings of Jupiter, Venus, the Big and Little Dippers, Cassiopeia, and the North Star. You know who was very keen on looking up into the night sky and sharing some info. 😊
Dare I say it - yet another amazing day.
Day 28 - Hello sunshine (Barcelonne à Pimbo 28 km)
A lack of connectivity prevented me from posting yesterday so this is for Sunday.
After yesterday's full day of rain, today was a welcome relief with beautiful weather consisting of partly cloudy skies and a nice breeze which provided opportunity for our packs to dry.
The grape fields of yesterday were replaced with fields of corn.....and lots of it. Travel was mostly along quiet country roads but we were fortunate to have excursions into forests which of course, looked and smelled incredible after the rain.
At times, there were many pilgrims on the road today while there were also occasions when none could be seen at all. Such are the dynamics of the daily Camino journey. The average age for those on the road right now appears to be between 55 and 60 and unfortunately, there are very few young people. I am grateful that there are two young pilgrims in our family for they add a special flavour to the adventure. I did have a chance to chat with some of the regular pilgrims I often see but for the most part, I was on my own today.
When we arrived at Pimbo, our destination, we were surprised and grateful to see Rachel (the younger one from Paris). We thought she would be well ahead of us but like most, she took a couple of shorter days and we caught up with her. Rachel, Ankemaria, Pierre and I had a gite to ourselves tonight and it was a real pleasure to sit at the supper table and tell stories about our adventures so far. The evening meal, especially one with such a small family group, is one of my favourite events along the Way.
Rain is in the forecast for Monday.
Day 27 - 'Fool in the Rain' (Nogaro à Barcelonne 27 km)
Today it rained……and rained……and rained. And in between the rain was heavy rain. And through it all, my spirits were high.
Pierre and I met Rachel near the cathedral just after 8:00 to begin the day…..in the rain. Rachel and I walked together for most of the morning until she took a separate path to her gîte. With similar former career paths and life philosophies, we have quite a bit in common and this led to great conversations on a wide variety of topics. She gave me some great ideas on options for my future which definitely piqued my interest. I thoroughly enjoyed my short time with Rachel but with different intentions for walking distances, it is unlikely that I will see her again on this journey. I will miss our conversations but will definitely remain in touch. She is a special soul.
I walked alone for most of the second half of the day however Pierre would occasionally wait for me to catch up so we could chat. His young legs move a bit faster than my well-worn limbs.
The path today was through similar forests and fields of grapes and corn as on recent days however because of the heavy rain, extreme care had to be taken on many portions of the trail. The muddy path was extremely slippery in some places which necessitated slowing down and paying close attention to where you planted your sticks. By the end of the day, the shoes were completely soaked through and covered in mud. Additionally, no matter how good your rain jacket is, under these conditions of rain and wind, you will be wet - inside and out. And of course the water and mud add weight to you and your kit. It was a relief to arrive at the gîte and remove the wet clothes for a hot shower.
Ankemaria met up with us today which is fantastic as we should be walking with her for a few days. She is a very welcome and important part of this family.
Despite the adverse weather conditions today, I had a good day. With the rain and wind trying to wipe the smile from my face, I would not have wanted to be anywhere else today. I am exactly where I need to be right now.
Day 26 - We crossed the line (Éauze à Nogaro 21 km)
What a wonderful start to the day! With a chilly mist blanketing the countryside, Pierre and I started out with the sun trying to burn through the haze. We were gifted with beautiful and eerie scenery for a couple of hours before the sun finally cleared the air. Most of today was through fields of grapes or corn and along quiet country roads. We were about half done today's planned journey by the time we arrived at second breakfast around 10:30.
Because there are not many services on this route, we have to ensure that we stop at the infrequent épicerie to buy the essential items for lunch on the go. Most of the time it's a baguette, some cheese, fruit and if available, some dried duck sausage. Simple and repetitive yet incredibly delicious when you are on this journey.
With about 5 km to go, we came across a photo display of about 30 portraits taken by Jean-Michel Danard. Over the course of about three years, his subjects were pilgrims who stayed at his house. The pictures were amazing and to find them in the middle of nowhere along the path was even more incredible. They were a real treat for us.
Also along today's journey was the Greenwich Meridian (or prime meridian) established in 1884, where the eastern hemisphere meets the western hemisphere. For this Air Force navigator, it is a significant location as it is equivalent to crossing the equator, the international date line, or the Arctic Circle. Although I've flown over this particular line numerous times, it is only the second time that I've walked across it and I was pleasantly surprised to see it. We are now in the western hemisphere. That's your geeky factoid for the day. 😁
An early arrival at the gîte communal meant that the normal rituals of shower and laundry could be followed by some relaxation time. We thoroughly enjoyed it.
Dinner was downtown at a burger joint - my meal was a regular cheeseburger and fries while Pierre had what appeared to be a two pound taco with fries. He did not move very quickly on our transit to meet Rachel for a refreshment and a chat. We did not see her all day and it was nice to get caught up. Overall, it was a very enjoyable evening.
We are expecting a bit of wet weather tomorrow….. but I never believe the forecast. 😁
Day 25 - Wet and Wonderful (Montréal à Éauze 20 km)
Today was the first real daytime rain we have had since arriving in France. It started out as just a heavy mist requiring only a cover on our packs but eventually we had to don our raincoats. More travel through several vineyards and along an old rail bed was the norm for today. No matter what the weather, I love the views and simply experiencing nature.
I walked with Rachel from Oregon for the day which I thoroughly enjoyed. We had great conversations on a wide variety of topics and I'm sure that we will run into each other again. We saw Laurent from Paris and had a great chat with him. I briefly met him a couple of days ago but this encounter provided both Rachel and me an opportunity to practice our steadily improving French.
Pierre and I stayed at a gîte a short distance from the centre of town and once again, my French listening abilities were put to the test - a definite challenge with multiple conversations happening at once around the dinner table.
Today was our second shorter day in a row and tomorrow we will increase the distance. Planning a couple days in advance is essential because the number of open gîtes are limited. Looking forward to another great day.
Day 24 - Transition (Condom à Montréal 18 km)
Today was definitely a transition day as family members went off on their own Caminos this morning. Dan left to head to Irun, Spain to do the Camino Norte and Ankemaria stayed in town for a well deserved rest. Pierre and I continued on with a couple of short days planned to give our bodies a bit of a break.
It was an uneventful day until we arrived in Montréal. After a refreshment in the town square, we went to our gîte and met Rachel from Oregon, one of the very few North Americans on the path this year. I had a great chat with this wonderful woman and thoroughly enjoyed our conversation before and during dinner. At dinner, we also met Kristine from Germany who is walking from Munich to Santiago - 2500 km in 100 days. Incredible!
Our hosts Anita and Vincent, both pilgrims themselves, were quite entertaining and provided a wonderful meal.
The adventure continues, albeit with a few changes. The Camino provides.
Day 23 - Hot and sweaty (Marsolan à Condom 25 km)
Another day through farms, forests and fields in hot, humid weather. Even though the climbs were nothing like we've previously encountered, the heat and humidity, even early in the day, led to sweaty pilgrims rather quickly. We took frequent breaks and thoroughly enjoyed each one.
Our transit was through a few towns with incredible medieval architecture and very interesting history. Even after over three weeks of walking in this land, I'm still in awe of the age and ingenious construction of the buildings, whether a cathedral or a farm house.
At the end of the day, while enjoying a refreshing drink near the cathedral, we saw Romain and his friend Brigitte and invited them to join us. I first met Roman over a week ago and it was great to see him again.
A quick update on my blisters. I affectionately named my first blister Gemini because it is in the exact same spot as the one on my first Camino; it is still bothering me as is a second one on my heel and they are limiting my ability to walk. I'm working on promoting healing, preventing further damage, and managing the pain but for now and in this heat, I'm limited to no more than 25 km per day. Not great but I have no intention of stopping. I've been through this before and I know my body. I also know that my mind can handle this so I will continue to do the best that I can under these conditions. Day by day with lots of meds. 🙂
Life continues to be good. Changes are on the horizon.
Day 22 - Fields and Forests (Castet-Arrouy à Marsolan 22 km)
We had another early day to try and beat the heat which provided us with the opportunity to view another beautiful sunrise. Similar to yesterday, the path took us through fields and forests and we are seeing more and more sunflower and soy fields. I had a comment a week or so ago about having too many pictures of cows - enjoy the sunflowers. 😁
It was an uneventful day however we enjoyed the flyby by the Armée de l'Air et de l'Espace, the pool, and another delicious meal which included an amazing pâté.
Off to Condom tomorrow for adventure.
Day 21 - Tournesols/Sunflowers (Espalais à Castet-Arrouy 25 km)
To start off today, I must tell you that the gîte we stayed at last night was absolutely amazing. Our host Muriel was attentive to our every need, accommodating, kind, generous and understanding. Gîte Le Par'Chemin is a must stop on this route.
We said goodbye to Martine from Belgium today as she will spend some time visiting family before she returns to the path. She will be missed.
It was a hot day today as we walked through farmland and along quiet country roads. We took frequent breaks from the heat but tried to hurry to avoid the worst part of the day. We are now in the land of sunflowers and we traversed dozens of fields with millions of plants surrounding us. With a backdrop of the beautiful rolling French countryside, the view of the fields was stunning. It is impossible for the camera to capture the vast expanse of these fields and how incredible they look. You will have to come see for yourself.
A mixup at the gite had me changing bed locations three times but after some discussion and a very good attempt at trying my patience, all worked out. Pizza and wine with the family made up for the problems.
We are three weeks into our journey and we've traveled about 400 km - over halfway to our initial destination of Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port. We should be there in about 10 days and will then decide what the next phase will be. Looking forward to each and every day.
Day 20 - Family (Espis à Espalais 27 km)
Under cover of darkness, the group started early to make it to mass in Moissac. I left a few minutes behind them and walked the 5 km alone relishing in the pre-dawn beauty. Despite the darkness, there was no need for my headlamp as the route was along the road and the twilight was adequate for navigation.
I met up with Dan, Ankemaria, Pierre and Rachel in town and besides visiting the church and Cloister, we accomplished some errands and stocked up on market food. While in town we visited the pilgrim welcome centre where we were told that the number of pilgrims who checked in from countries other that from the EU was very low. Only a handful of tabs were on the North America map.
I travelled alone for the next couple of hours until the quick-paced Rachel caught up with me during one of my breaks. We walked the next couple of hours together along the shaded canal with comfortable temperatures. Once we left the canal, the heat climbed in the brillant sun and when we finally reached our gite, we were glad the travel was done for the day. The remaining three showed up a short while later with music for motivation.
Shower and laundry was followed by relaxation and chatting with the other guests until aperitif time.
A first on this journey, our host had us all sit in the garden, introduce ourselves and tell the group what one word described their day. The responses from the dozen or so guests were wonderful with numerous anecdotes and stories providing support to the one word. I thoroughly enjoyed this special event. My word - family. It is what I found on my first Camino and what continues to develop on this one. We hold our relationships to be very special and we will do pretty much anything to help each other out.
Dinner and hosting were excellent and I continue to be very impressed by the gites along this path. I enjoyed a short star-gazing session under clear skies before calling it a night.
Day 19 - Sights, Smells, Sounds…. and Silence (Lauzerte à Espis 23 km)
Another glorious day. We started with a leisurely breakfast as we had another shorter distance to travel. Departure through the mist-filled town and down the steep hill from Lauzerte was quite beautiful. We could not see the distant surrounding countryside and entering into the forest was eerie. One thing about the numerous forest climbs we encounter each day. We never know if they are two minutes or twenty minutes long. If a climb is on a road, you can see how far you have to go. In the forest, you never see the top as you start your climb so you have to be mentally prepared for anything. In the morning with fresh legs, it's normally not a problem. In the afternoon heat, it can be a bit of a challenge - especially with the humidity that we've had for a few days.
The forests were still very wet from the recent rains and the scent of the earth and plants lingered. The incredible greens I wrote about in an earlier post always capture my eye and I can never resist another picture. Additionally, the sound of birds seems to be everywhere at times. It is along the path in the woods where I feel most content, surrounded by nature in its truest form. I will often stop on the path to listen and look at what this beautiful country has to offer. And on occasion when I do this, it will be completely silent. Nothing. It's like someone turned the volume on nature down to zero. I love this silence.
We walked through tired looking sunflower fields, too exhausted to turn their heads to the sky. Most are dull and brown however we saw a couple of fields with their bright yellow petals refusing to accept their inevitable fate.
At a prolonged lunch stop with the four of us, I heard people speaking English right behind us so of course I started chatting with them. Thomas is a Dane living Copenhagen and Therese is an American originally from San Francisco also now living in Copenhagen. They were in the area for a friend's big celebration and just stopped at the café for lunch. It was an absolute pleasure speaking with them and I have added them to my list of people who are welcome to visit me back in Canada.
In the afternoon, orchards of apples, plums and kiwis became our neighbours along the path. I stopped to take a picture of a husband and wife harvesting their plums and was rewarded with a handful of beautiful and quite tasty fruit. The landscape continually changes as we move from region to region.
There were familiar faces at dinner from past gîtes and great conversation ensued. I met a new face, Rachel from Paris, who plans on traveling all the way to Santiago. Another pilgrim who will inevitably cross our paths in the days and weeks to come.
The journey continues with my love for this adventure growing.
Day 18 - A Cleansing (Lascabanes à Lauzerte 25 km)
Last night, as the lights in the gîte went dark, the skies above the campers in the garden lit up in dramatic fashion. A series of severe thunderstorms ravaged the area for a few hours and tested both their tents and their resolve. Everyone survived but not without a few rattled nerves and all made it for breakfast in the morning.
Because we had a relatively short day and we had reservations at our destination, we enjoyed a leisurely breakfast and departure. The mist was beautiful in the morning and the heavy rain left incredibly clean scents that were enjoyed throughout the day. The forests came alive with aromas and colours that are only seen after a thorough cleansing by torrential rain.
There were a couple of steep climbs but overall, the travel was easy through rolling French countryside and forests. Beauty was everywhere although the camera could not capture the true essence of what we experienced.
Several of last night's guests stopped in Montcuq for a second breakfast and gave us all a chance to regroup. Our own family leapfrogged throughout the day depending on how we were feeling. It was a good day for travel.
Dan and I arrived in the medieval town of Lauzerte mid-afternoon and enjoyed a refreshing drink and waited for the others. Hearing English voices, which we find to be rare on this Camino, we struck up a conversation with Julia and Robin from Sussex, England. They have a summer home near Montcuq and were just in the area for a visit. It was very lovely to meet them and we thoroughly enjoyed our chat. They are officially invited to Ottawa and Seattle.
Our gîte, which was built in the 12th century, was magnificent! Two bathrooms and one big bedroom for each group of four people is luxury and we were completely satisfied. Dinner again was incredible and our host Ana was very gracious and accommodating. The meal was superbly presented and enjoyed by all. I keep wondering how the food can continue to improve with each day.
I'm very grateful for this journey I'm on, for the old friend I travel with, for the wonderful new friends I've met, for the beautiful country we are in and for this amazing experience. Every day I'm here is a gift that I will treasure for a very long time.
Day 17 - It's back! (Cahors à Lascabanes 24 km)
After a day of rest in Cahors it was time to hit the road again. But unfortunately, I had an old friend appear who traveled with me today and who I expect will be with me for quite a while. The blister that was my nemesis on my first Camino has reappeared despite my precautions to prevent this. And I know exactly how this happened - two 30+ km hikes in a row during hot and demanding conditions.
Some of you may ask, why did you put yourself in these conditions? Two reasons. Firstly, I'm not good at leaving my Camino family. We had a plan to visit some special places in the Célé Valley and to stay together, we all had to push hard. I was not going to drop out and lose my family. Additionally, the first day in the valley was much harder than any of us thought it would be with numerous ascents/descents in hot conditions. The second long day was the last night together with Clément and Lucie in Cahors and there was no way I was going to miss that. Secondly, there were not many options to stay in the Célé Valley meaning that we had to travel far to find a place to stay. The guide book that I have is very detailed however it does not cover the Célé Valley variant and all planning I did was on my phone using Google maps and other sources. My estimate on the distance for day two was wrong and that affected things significantly. So, all of the above is why I've got a blister. Mea culpa. But I've been through this before and I know that my mind can battle the pain. I am good, I am strong, and I am exactly where I need to be.
Enough about my issues. Let's talk about today. Dan and I left our gîte shortly after 0700 to meet up with Pierre (aka Scout) on the bridge out of Cahors. Dan and Scout walked together for the day and because I'm now walking slower, I spent only a couple of hours with them.
After an initial steep but relatively short climb out of the city, the route today was pretty benign with only a few ascents and descents. Nothing today was as challenging as the Célé Valley. I did notice that there were more pilgrims on the route than before and we will see how that affects finding a bed in the future. Our intent for now is to travel about 20-25 km each day rather than pack on the kms. The terrain for quite a while now should be similar to what we experienced today - benign.
On my walk I met Roman who, after a very challenging two years as a nurse, has decided to take a year off. His first mission, to walk the Camino. He has yet to decide how far or for how long but that is no surprise as many of us are in that position along the Way. In another episode of ‘the world is small,’ Roman met Lucie and Clément at the bus station in Bouziès on Monday!
After we cleaned up and were relaxing, we were very pleased to see Santamaria arrive; she will be with us tonight which is a wonderful treat for us all. Another guest, Martine, arrived at the gîte just in time for dinner. Coincidentally, she was also at the gîte we stayed at last night.
Dinner was delicious as always. With 17 people at the table, the food was probably the best that I've had to date on this journey. Our host was such a lovely woman with a kind, soft voice who wanted nothing but the best for all of us.
One final point. The locals we have met, either along the Way in the villages or the gîte owners, have been incredibly generous, accommodating and kind. The gîtes and other businesses have been hit hard by Covid and it is quite evident that they are grateful to have pilgrims once again. Local residents have been very kind with no hesitation to provide water if we ask or to have tables set up with refreshments. Similar to my experiences in Canada, I've found that those who live in ‘small town’ France are wonderful people. I could easily live here.
Day 16 - Rest day in Cahors
Quiet day for self-imposed mandatory rest. Nothing much to say. See you tomorrow. 🙂
Day 15 - And yet another. (Saint-Cirq-Lapopie à Cahors 32 km)
After a decent sleep, a hot shower and a traditional French breakfast at the campground, we were ready to begin another long day of hiking. Our first order of business was to climb up to Saint-Cirq-Lapopie which is considered to be one of the most beautiful villages in all of France. It did not disappoint. In the early morning sun, the village was indeed very beautiful. The narrow streets, the impressive architecture, the incredible views and the air of centuries old history made for a wonderful experience. It was well worth the extra distance we covered yesterday.
Lucie has been nursing a sprained ankle for several days and despite the very challenging treks over the past few days, she continued to fight through the pain and discomfort. This morning however, she decided that she could no longer risk further injury, especially since today was going to be another long day. She made it into Bouziès where she could catch a bus to Cahors. Always the gentleman, Clément decided to stay with her. This meant that Dan and I were on our own for the remainder of the day.
Because of the difficult day we had yesterday, we decided to modify the route slightly to reduce the distance. With intermittent cell coverage and somewhat suspect maps, we ended up spending significant time on roads and goat paths but also created our own bushwacked trails through forests and fields. Late in the afternoon, we split up as my body was telling me to minimize the distance while Dan wanted to head to the river.
In the end, we made it to our gîte within 45 minutes of each other in the early evening and were greeted by Lucie, Clément, Kate and well-deserved cold beer. Another incredible supper supervised by Lucie followed and since this was our last night together, we spent a great deal of time chatting.
Speaking of Lucie and Clément, they unfortunately have to leave us because of other commitments back home. I cannot tell you how much they have touched each of us in a different way. They are such lovely young people who will be greatly missed for the rest of our journey yet who will always remain in our hearts and in our lives. Clément, the English/French teacher and historian was always very patient with my language abilities and frequently provided us with very interesting facts about the local architecture and history. Lucie, the incredible chef and geologist, with her constant smile, positive attitude, beautiful French accent when she spoke English, was a bright light for us on this journey. The very cute noises she produced with her lips in regular conversation kept us so amused (how can I spell pfftt, ppupt, ppiut, pprup?). I met Clément on the first day and Lucie a few days later. I am so grateful to have spent two weeks with them and look forward to the next time I see them. We said goodbye to them Tuesday morning as they went to catch a bus and three trains for their 12 hour journey back to Lyon.
For the past two days my body has been telling me to take a well-deserved break. It is hurting after two weeks on the go and about 350 km of challenging terrain. Today is a rest and recuperation day. If all goes well, I'll be ready to press forward tomorrow.
